MAKE SURE TO CLEAN AND DRY YOUR WHEELS PRIOR TO COMMENCING. IN PREPARATION, AN ACID WASH IS OFTEN RECOMMENDED. TO MEET THIS NEED, WE SELL FLITZ PREWASH. YOU WILL FIND IT UNDER "SPECIALTY PRODUCTS."

1. PRIMARY CUTTING (BROWN ROUGE)

AFTER YOUR INITIAL PREPARATION, CHOOSE THE BUFFING WHEEL MOST APPROPIATE TO THE CONDITION OF YOUR ALUMINUM. FOR HEAVY CUTTING, USE THE ORANGE OR BLUE BUFFING WHEEL. FOR LESS HEAVY CUTTING, CHOOSE THE YELLOW MILL TREAT; OR FOR SOMETHING IN BETWEEN, YOU MAY WANT TO USE THE #4 YELLOW FAST CUT BUFFING WHEEL. IF YOUR ALUMINUM IS IN REASONABLY GOOD CONDITION, YOU MAY WANT TO BEGIN AT THE NEXT (SECONDARY) STEP. IF USING A WHEEL THAT HAS BEEN USED BEFORE, MAKE SURE IT IS CLEAN AND FREE FROM ABRASIVE PARTICLES.

IT IS UNNECESSARY, AND IN FACT SHOULD BE AVOIDED WHEN APPLYING ROUGE TO THE BUFFING WHEEL, THAT PRESSURE IS APPLIED. SIMPLY "TOUCH" THE ROUGE BAR WITH THE OUTSIDE EDGE OF THE BUFFING WHEEL UNTIL THE ROUGE ADHERES TO THE WHEEL. THE ROUGE BAR SHOULD BE PLACED ON A CLEAN SURFACE TO AVOID COLLECTING DEBRIS. THE POLISHING WORK ITSELF IS DONE BY LETTING THE ROUGE COMPOUND DO THE CUTTING AND POLISHING. AVOID THE TENDENCY OF APPLYING EXCESSIVE PRESSURE TO THE BUFFING WHEEL. IT IS ALSO IMPORTANT TO AVOID EXCESSIVELY HIGH RPMS AS THE HEAT GENERATED ON THE WORK SURFACE WILL INTERFERE WITH THE ROUGE WORKING PROPERLY. THE RECOMMENDED RPMS FOR ALUMINUM IS BETWEEN 1500 AND 3000. ONE OF MY CUSTOMERS, A LONG TIME PROFESSIONAL POLISHER, CONSISTENTLY POLISHES AROUND 2200 RPMS.

IN GENERAL TERMS, YOU WILL WANT TO START AT THE TOP OR BOTTOM OF THE ITEM BEING POLISHED (FUEL TANK FOR EXAMPLE) AND POLISH BY SECTIONS. USE A SMOOTH LEFT TO RIGHT POLISHING MOTION. MAKE SEVERAL PASSES USING AN OVERLAPPING MOTION, AS YOU WORK TOP TO BOTTOM OR BOTTOM TO TOP. (CLEAN YOUR BUFFING WHEELS PERIODICALLY DURING USE, AND AFTER USE. STORE THEM IN A PLASTIC BAG TO KEEP THEM FROM PICKING UP ABRASIVE MATERIAL.)

(NOTE: IF PITS AND DEEP SCRATCHES ARE PRESENT, SANDING WILL BE NECESSARY PRIOR TO THE BUFFING PROCESS. YOU CAN START WITH ABOUT 320 WET DRY GRIT AND WORK UP TO AROUND 1000 GRIT.)

2. SECONDARY CUTTING (GREEN ROUGE)

FOR THE SECONDARY CUTTING, USE THE PURPLE -LEA OR HALL GREEN BUFFING WHEEL. IF YOU ARE BEGINNING YOUR TASK AT THIS STAGE, YOU MAY WANT TO USE THE YELLOW MILL TREAT AND THEN PROCEED TO THE THIRD (FINAL SHINE) STEP.

USE THE SAME MOTION AND DIRECTION AS THE PRECEDING STEP. IF YOU NOTICE THAT THE ROUGE COMPOUND IS "CAKING' ON THE EDGE, USE A BUFFING WHEEL "RAKE" (A WIRE BRUSH IS SOMETIMES USED) TO CLEAN THE EXCESS COMPOUND FROM THE WHEEL. YOU DO NOT WANT TO HAVE A BUILD-UP OF ROUGE ON THE BUFFING WHEEL, OR THE ALUMINUM SURFACE. A COMMON MISTAKE IS TO USE TOO MUCH ROUGE. THIS MAKES IT DIFFICULT TO REMOVE FROM THE ALUMINUM. IF YOU SHOULD GET A BUILD-UP ON THE ALUMINUM, LAY OFF THE ROUGE AND GO OVER THE AREA WITHOUT ADDITIONAL ROUGE. 

3. FINAL FINISH (WHITE ROUGE)

FOR THE FINAL STEP IN THE MACHINE POLISHING PROCESS, CHOOSE THE WHITE UNTREATED BUFFING WHEEL; OR YOU MAY OPT TO USE ONE OF THE COTTON MUSLIN BUFFS WHICH COME IN 30, 40, 50 OR 60 PLY. THE 30 PLY HAS THE LEAST WIDTH AND THE 60 PLY IS THE WIDEST. USE THE SAME PROCEDURE AS IN THE PREVIOUS STEPS. IF YOU PREFER, YOU CAN SUBSTITUTE THE PLATINUM ROUGES, LIKE THE RED OR THE BLUE, IN PLACE OF THE STANDARD WHITE ROUGE.

4. FINAL WIPE DOWN

AFTER FINISHING THE ABOVE PROCESS, THIS LAST STEP WILL TAKE CARE OF ANY DUST AND CAKED RESIDUE IN THE PORES OF THE ALUMINUM. APPLY THE LIQUID PRO 40 METAL POLISH TO A MICROFIBER TOWEL. RUB UNTIL THE SURFACE BECOMES BLACK. LET THE POLISH DRY TO A HAZE, AND THEN RUB OFF WITH A CLEAN, DRY MICROFIBER TOWEL. GOOD WORK!

FOR MAINTENANCE OF ALUMINUM WHEELS, SEE "WHEEL POLISHING KITS".